Published by Leonardo Calcagno
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
In the land of Brunello and Super Tuscans, a new generation of artisans is crafting beers worthy of the region’s legendary terroir
The cypress-lined hills of Tuscany have witnessed many revolutions—from the Renaissance masters who transformed art forever to the Super Tuscan winemakers who rewrote the rules of Italian viticulture in the 1970s. Now, in converted farmhouses and restored medieval buildings across the region, another quiet revolution is taking place, one hop and grain at a time.
Tuscany’s craft beer movement represents perhaps the ultimate test of artisanal confidence: daring to brew in the shadow of some of the world’s most revered wines. Yet the region’s brewers are not merely playing second fiddle to their viticultural neighbours—they’re creating a parallel universe of flavour that draws from the same cultural DNA that has made Tuscany synonymous with excellence.
The Tuscan Paradox
At first glance, Tuscany seems an unlikely candidate for brewing greatness. This is, after all, the region that gave the world Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Wine here isn’t just agriculture—it’s identity, history, and art distilled into liquid form. The very stones of medieval towns like San Gimignano and Volterra seem steeped in centuries of winemaking tradition.
Yet it’s precisely this cultural sophistication that has enabled Tuscany’s craft brewers to flourish. In a region where artisanal excellence is not exceptional but expected, where the concept of terroir is understood intuitively, and where the marriage of tradition and innovation has been perfected over centuries, craft beer has found fertile ground.
Pioneers of the Pour
The movement’s founding father is arguably Teo Musso of Baladin, though technically based in Piedmont, his influence on Tuscan brewing cannot be overstated. His philosophy—that beer should reflect its place of origin with the same precision as wine—has been embraced wholeheartedly by Tuscan artisans.
In the hills near San Miniato, renowned for its white truffles, Birrificio San Quirico has established itself as the region’s most ambitious brewery. Founded by sommelier-turned-brewer Marco Antonelli, the operation occupies a restored 14th-century monastery, where Belgian-style ales age in former wine cellars alongside experimental batches that incorporate everything from Tuscan honey to Chianina beef stock.
Their flagship “Brunello Barrel Aged Imperial Stout” spends eighteen months in barrels previously used for Brunello di Montalcino, developing notes of dark chocolate, espresso, and that unmistakable Tuscan earthiness that speaks of centuries-old terroir. It’s a beer that could only exist in this particular corner of the world.
The Florence Renaissance
Florence, the cradle of the Renaissance, has naturally become the intellectual centre of Tuscany’s beer revolution. The city’s craft beer scene centeres around the Oltrarno district, where artisan workshops have operated for centuries. Here, establishments like Mostodolce have created spaces that feel more like Renaissance salons than modern bars, complete with frescoed ceilings and wine-style tasting flights.
The city’s approach to craft beer reflects its artistic heritage—experimental, intellectual, and unafraid of challenging conventions. At Il Santino, just steps from the Ponte Vecchio, the beer list changes weekly, featuring collaborations between local brewers and international artists, literally treating beer as a canvas for creative expression.
Rural Innovation
Perhaps more intriguing than Florence’s urban scene is what’s happening in Tuscany’s countryside, where farming families with centuries of agricultural knowledge are applying their expertise to brewing. In the Maremma region, once the domain of Etruscan civilization, several agriturismo operations have added breweries to their offerings, creating integrated agricultural systems where barley grows alongside olive groves and vineyards.
Birrificio Apuano, nestled in the Apuan Alps near Carrara’s marble quarries, exemplifies this agricultural approach. Founded by a family that has farmed the same land for six generations, they’ve developed a line of beers that incorporate herbs foraged from the surrounding mountains—wild fennel, juniper, and rare Mediterranean botanicals that give their ales a complexity that synthetic additives could never achieve.
The Sommelier’s Approach
What distinguishes Tuscan craft beer most clearly is its wine-influenced approach to service and appreciation. Many of the region’s beer enthusiasts are trained sommeliers who’ve transferred their palate expertise from grape to grain. This has resulted in a level of sophistication in beer service rarely seen elsewhere—proper glassware, ideal serving temperatures, and food pairings that rival those found in Michelin-starred restaurants.
At Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina in Florence, owner and certified sommelier Roberto Mori has created what may be Italy’s most sophisticated beer program, with vertical tastings of barrel-aged ales and seasonal pairing menus that match specific beers with traditional Tuscan dishes. His “Ribollita and Rustic Saison” pairing has become legendary among food and beer enthusiasts.
Challenges and Opportunities
The path hasn’t been entirely smooth. Tuscany’s craft brewers face unique challenges, not least of which is competing for attention in a region where wine dominates both culturally and economically. Local ingredients can be prohibitively expensive—Tuscan honey, Chianina beef, and other regional specialties command premium prices that make them luxury additions rather than everyday ingredients.
Yet these challenges have also bred innovation. Unable to compete on price, Tuscan brewers have focused relentlessly on quality and uniqueness. The result is a scene characterized by small-batch, high-end production that mirrors the region’s approach to wine and cuisine.
Looking Ahead
As Tuscany’s craft beer scene matures, it’s developing its own distinct identity—one that honors the region’s cultural heritage while pushing the boundaries of what beer can be. The next generation of brewers, many of whom have studied both brewing and winemaking, are creating increasingly sophisticated products that speak to Tuscany’s unique position in the world of artisanal beverages.
In a region where Michelangelo’s David stands eternal watch over centuries of artistic achievement, and where every hill town contains enough cultural treasures to stock a museum, craft beer might seem like an unlikely addition to the legacy. Yet in the hands of Tuscan artisans, it becomes something more than mere refreshment—it becomes another expression of the region’s endless capacity for transforming raw materials into art.
The brewers of Tuscany are proving that excellence isn’t confined to any single medium. Whether working in marble, grape, or grain, the Tuscan artisan’s touch remains unmistakable—sophisticated, innovative, and deeply rooted in a culture that has spent centuries perfecting the art of making beautiful things.
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal