Published by Leonardo Calcagno
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
In the rolling hills between Bologna and Parma, where prosciutto ages in medieval cellars and wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano mature in cathedral-like warehouses, a quiet revolution is fermenting. Emilia-Romagna—Italy’s undisputed culinary capital—has turned its discerning palate toward craft beer, creating a movement that mirrors the region’s centuries-old commitment to artisanal excellence.
The transformation began in earnest during the mid-2000s, when a generation of young Emilians, raised on the region’s legendary food culture, began questioning why their beer couldn’t match the sophistication of their cuisine. Today, more than 80 microbreweries dot the landscape from the Adriatic coast to the Apennine foothills, each one a testament to the region’s ability to embrace innovation while honouring tradition.
A Terroir-Driven Approach
What sets Emilia-Romagna’s craft beer scene apart is its distinctly Italian approach to brewing—one that treats beer with the same reverence typically reserved for wine. Local brewers have adopted the concept of terroir, sourcing ingredients from within the region’s borders and creating beers that taste unmistakably of their place of origin.
At Birrificio del Ducato in Roncole Verdi—Verdi’s birthplace—founder Giovanni Campari has pioneered the use of local ingredients, from Lambrusco grape must to aged balsamic vinegar, creating beers that blur the line between brewing and winemaking. His “Verdi Imperial Stout,” aged in barrels that once held 25-year-old aceto balsamico tradizionale, exemplifies this hyperlocal philosophy.
Similarly, Birrificio Cittavecchia in Cittadella draws inspiration from the region’s agricultural heritage, incorporating everything from Romagna honey to Mora Romagnola pork fat into their brewing process. Their “Sangiovese Sour” uses local wine grapes, creating a bridge between the region’s viticultural and brewing traditions.
The New Generation
The movement’s most compelling figures are often second or third-generation artisans who’ve applied family traditions to brewing. Take Francesco Bosi of Birra Flea in Guastalla, whose family has been making aceto balsamico for four generations. His barrel-aged barleywines spend months in his great-grandfather’s vinegar barrels, developing complex flavour profiles that speak to centuries of craftsmanship.
These brewers understand that in Emilia-Romagna, food is never just sustenance—it’s culture, identity, and art. Their beers reflect this philosophy, designed not just to quench thirst but to complement the region’s extraordinary cuisine. Many collaborate directly with local restaurants, creating bespoke brews that pair specifically with regional specialties.
Innovation Meets Tradition
The region’s brewing renaissance has found its epicentre in Bologna, where establishments like Baladin Open Garden have created spaces that feel more like wine bars than traditional birrerie. Here, craft beer is served in proper glassware, discussed with the seriousness of a Barolo tasting, and paired with locally sourced antipasti.
The city’s university quarter has embraced craft beer culture with characteristic intellectual vigour. Students and professors alike gather at places like Birroteca, where the beer menu reads like a geography lesson of Italian brewing, with particular emphasis on local producers.
Looking Forward
As Emilia-Romagna’s craft beer scene matures, it faces the same challenges confronting artisanal producers worldwide: maintaining quality while scaling production, preserving local character while building broader appeal. Yet the region’s deep-rooted commitment to craftsmanship provides a sturdy foundation.
The future seems bright for Emilia-Romagna’s brewing renaissance. With each passing year, more young people are choosing to remain in the region, drawn by the possibility of creating something both innovative and rooted in tradition. They’re building a movement that honours the past while embracing the future—much like the region’s approach to everything from automotive design to gastronomy.
In a world increasingly dominated by global brands and homogenised flavours, Emilia-Romagna’s craft brewers offer something precious: beer that tastes of somewhere specific, created by people who understand that the best things in life are worth waiting for, worth doing properly, and worth sharing with others who appreciate the difference between good and extraordinary.
The region that gave the world Lambrusco and Sangiovese is now proving that its relationship with fermentation runs deeper than wine alone. In every perfectly balanced IPA and expertly aged stout, there’s a reminder that in Emilia-Romagna, craft isn’t just a marketing term—it’s a way of life.
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal