Published by Leonardo Calcagno
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
How a generation of Neapolitan brewers is reimagining Italy’s relationship with hops, one carefully crafted pint at a time
The morning light filters through the industrial windows of Birrificio Karma, casting long shadows across rows of gleaming steel fermentation tanks. In the heart of Naples’ gritty Bagnoli district, master brewer Agostino Arienzo adjusts his wire-rimmed glasses and peers into a sample glass filled with his latest creation—a hazy IPA infused with Sorrento lemons and wild fennel foraged from the slopes of Vesuvius.
“People think craft beer in Italy began in the north,” Arienzo says, his voice carrying the melodic cadence of Campania. “But here, we’ve been fermenting longer than most civilizations have existed. We’re simply returning to our roots, with a contemporary vocabulary.”
This sentiment echoes across a region where ancient Greek settlers first planted vines and established the foundational principles of fermentation that would define Mediterranean gastronomy. Today, Campania—long overshadowed by Tuscany’s wines and Lombardy’s industrial might—is quietly asserting itself as Italy’s most intriguing craft beer frontier.
The Terroir of Hops
Unlike their counterparts in Rome or Milan, Campanian brewers possess something invaluable: terroir. The volcanic soil that nourishes San Marzano tomatoes and Vesuvian apricots also provides an ideal foundation for cultivating indigenous hops varieties. At Antica Birra Sorrentina, founded in the cliffside town of Sant’Agnello, third-generation agriculturalist Marco Alberico has developed a proprietary hop strain that captures the essence of Mediterranean coastal living.
“Our Sorrento Gold hops carry notes of bergamot and sea salt,” Alberico explains, standing among his carefully tended hop gardens that cascade down toward the Bay of Naples. “It’s impossible to replicate this flavor profile anywhere else. This is our competitive advantage—authenticity rooted in place.”
The brewery’s flagship Limoncello Lager has garnered international attention, not for its novelty, but for its sophisticated balance of citrus brightness and malty depth. It’s a beer that speaks fluent Italian while conversing comfortably with global palates.
Urban Alchemy
In Naples proper, the craft beer movement reflects the city’s characteristic blend of chaos and creativity. Brewfist, housed in a converted 19th-century palazzo in the Quartieri Spagnoli, represents the vanguard of urban brewing culture. Co-founder Fabio Brocca, a former philosophy professor turned brewmaster, approaches fermentation with intellectual rigor typically reserved for academic discourse.
“Beer is liquid philosophy,” Brocca muses, sampling a robust porter aged in barrels that previously held Taurasi wine. “Each batch poses questions about tradition, innovation, and the nature of taste itself. We’re not just brewing beer; we’re crafting arguments about what Italian flavor can become.”
The brewery’s taproom, designed by Milan-based architect Giulia Bergonzoni, seamlessly integrates industrial brewing equipment with neoclassical architectural details. Exposed brick walls display limited-edition bottles like art objects, while copper-topped tables encourage lingering conversations over carefully poured pints.
The New Gastronomy
Perhaps most significantly, Campanian craft brewers are revolutionizing Italy’s rigid beverage traditions. At Michelin-starred Palazzo Petrucci, chef Lino Scarallo has developed an entirely beer-focused tasting menu that pairs locally brewed ales with reimagined Neapolitan classics.
“Wine will always be fundamental to Italian cuisine,” Scarallo acknowledges, adjusting microgreens on a plate of sea urchin paired with Birra del Borgo’s saison. “But beer offers different possibilities—more effervescence, broader flavor profiles, greater flexibility with umami and spice.”
The restaurant’s sommelier, Anna Martusciello, recently became Italy’s first certified beer sommelier to work exclusively in fine dining. Her tasting notes read like poetry: “This wild ale opens with notes of Mediterranean herbs and closes with the minerality of Vesuvian stone.”
Export Ambitions
The movement’s maturation is evidenced by its growing international presence. Campanian craft beers now appear on select shelves in London, New York, and Tokyo, carried by discerning importers who recognize the region’s unique value proposition.
At Eataly’s flagship Rome location, craft beer buyer Alessandro Rossi notes increasing demand for southern Italian brews. “Customers are sophisticated now. They want stories, not just beverages. Campanian brewers offer both exceptional quality and compelling narratives rooted in place and tradition.”
The numbers support this enthusiasm. Craft beer production in Campania has increased 340% over the past five years, with sixteen new breweries opening since 2020. While still modest compared to northern Italy’s established brewing regions, the trajectory suggests sustained growth driven by quality rather than quantity.
Cultural Renaissance
Beyond economic indicators, the craft beer movement represents broader cultural transformation. In a region historically associated with emigration and economic struggle, young entrepreneurs are choosing to stay, creating businesses that celebrate rather than escape their heritage.
“My grandfather left Naples for America in 1954,” reflects Giuseppe Marra, founder of Birrificio Vesuvio. “I could have followed traditional paths—Rome, Milan, London. Instead, I’m here, creating something that makes people want to come to us.”
His brewery, located in a restored Liberty-style villa in Castellammare di Stabia, hosts monthly events that blend beer tastings with discussions about Neapolitan literature, art, and music. These gatherings attract intellectuals, artists, and curious visitors who discover that craft beer culture in Campania extends far beyond beverage production.
The Future Vintage
As afternoon light begins to fade over the Bay of Naples, casting Vesuvius in golden relief, the region’s craft brewers prepare for evening service. In tasting rooms from Salerno to Caserta, conversations flow as freely as the carefully crafted ales, each glass representing both ancient traditions and contemporary innovation.
The success of Campanian craft beer ultimately lies not in rejecting Italy’s vinous heritage, but in expanding its definition of liquid culture. These brewers understand that authenticity isn’t about preserving unchanged traditions, but about applying timeless principles to contemporary possibilities.
As Agostino Arienzo at Birrificio Karma puts it: “We’re not trying to become Germany or Belgium. We’re showing the world what Italian beer can be when it embraces its own character.”
In a region where Mount Vesuvius still smolders and ancient Greek ruins coexist with modern ambitions, this approach feels both inevitable and revolutionary. The fermentation, it seems, has only just begun.
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
image magifrabeer.com/