Published by Leonardo Calcagno
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
How Italy’s ancient seafaring republic discovered the art of modern brewing
Along the arc of coastline that stretches from the French Riviera to Tuscany, where terraced vineyards tumble toward the Mediterranean and fishing villages cling to cliffsides like medieval barnacles, an unexpected renaissance is quietly fermenting. Liguria, the narrow crescent of land that gave the world Christopher Columbus and pesto genovese, has become home to one of Italy’s most intriguing craft beer movements—one that honors maritime tradition while embracing contemporary innovation with the same audacity that once sent Genoese merchants across unknown seas.
This is the paradox of modern Liguria: a region where thousand-year-old caruggi (narrow medieval streets) now shelter craft beer pioneers, where the same entrepreneurial spirit that built maritime empires now creates small-batch ales, and where the Mediterranean’s ancient trade routes have become pathways for international brewing influences.
The Caruggi Revolution
In Genoa’s labyrinthine old town, tucked between medieval buildings that once housed spice merchants and banking dynasties, the craft beer revolution unfolds with characteristic Ligurian discretion. Located in the caruggi of Genoa, Scurreria Beer & Bagel serves up delicious craft beers and American-style bagels. The atmosphere is cozy and comfortable, perfect for catching up with friends. There are over a dozen taps of local and imported beers, along with a staggering by-the-bottle list.
This fusion of American-style dining with medieval ambiance captures something essential about Liguria’s craft beer scene: it’s international in scope but intimately local in execution. The caruggi, those impossibly narrow streets that once protected merchants from invading armies, now protect craft beer culture from homogenization, creating spaces that feel both hidden and welcoming.
The Artisanal Pioneers
At the heart of Liguria’s brewing renaissance stands Maltus Faber, a microbrewery that embodies the region’s approach to craft beer: serious about quality, rooted in tradition, unapologetically local. Maltus Faber è un microbirrificio Indipendente, dedicato alla produzione di Birra Artigianale di Qualità, non pastorizzata né filtrata e quindi ancora “viva” e fresca sia al momento dell’imbottigliamento che a quello del consumo.
Their philosophy reflects Ligurian values: independence, quality, and authenticity. Le caratteristiche delle nostre Birre, tutte ad alta fermentazione, e la rifermentazione in bottiglia permettono una evoluzione ed un affinamento del gusto nonché un periodo di conservazione non inferiore all’anno. This isn’t just brewing—it’s aging, evolving, improving over time, much like the region’s finest wines or aged cheeses.
The brewery’s “Cippa l’IPA” exemplifies this approach: Intense golden color and clear and persistent foam. Citrus notes prevail, mixed with resinous and balsamic nuances. The finish is pleasantly persistent. The beer’s complexity mirrors Liguria itself—layers of flavor that reveal themselves slowly, influenced by both local traditions and international techniques.
The Coastal Integration
What makes Liguria’s craft beer scene particularly compelling is its integration into the region’s established cultural landscape. This isn’t brewing as disruption, but as natural evolution of Ligurian entrepreneurship. Business or vacation? No matter the season or the reason, Genova (Genoa) will surprise you, my craft beer friends… And not only for the good craft beers you’ll be able to taste!
The region’s craft beer culture benefits from Liguria’s tourism infrastructure and culinary sophistication. Places like Taverna Zaccaria, a cozy pub located in the old town of Genoa, offering a unique blend of medieval charm and modern vibes, situated near the St. Lawrence Cathedral, demonstrate how craft beer integrates seamlessly into Genoa’s historical fabric.
The Cinque Terre Connection
Perhaps most remarkably, Liguria’s craft beer culture extends beyond Genoa into the region’s most celebrated landscapes. Maltus Faber beers can be found in establishments throughout the Cinque Terre, creating an intriguing parallel to the region’s wine culture. This isn’t craft beer competing with local wine traditions—it’s complementing them, offering visitors another lens through which to appreciate Ligurian terroir.
The distribution network reveals the sophistication of Liguria’s craft beer scene. From Genoa’s urban establishments to coastal restaurants serving tourists hiking between Monterosso and Vernazza, craft beer has found its place alongside local wines and traditional dishes.
The Maritime Influence
Liguria’s craft beer culture reflects the region’s maritime character in subtle but important ways. Like the ancient Genoese merchants who returned from distant ports with new spices and techniques, contemporary Ligurian brewers incorporate international influences—American hop varieties, Belgian fermentation methods, German precision—while remaining fundamentally rooted in place.
The result is beer that tastes distinctly Ligurian: complex, sophisticated, influenced by global currents but expressing local character. Best Breweries in Genoa include KamunLab, Maltus Faber, beer8, Enoteca Squillari, Birreria Hofbräuhaus, One Eyed Jacks, Irish PUB di Orogem, La Fabbrica della Birra, Fuori Tutti, representing a diversity that reflects Genoa’s historical role as a crossroads of cultures.
The Sophisticated Traveler’s Discovery
For discerning visitors, Liguria’s craft beer scene offers something increasingly rare: authenticity that enhances rather than competes with established attractions. This isn’t beer tourism as separate itinerary, but as integrated cultural experience. Whether you’re exploring Genoa’s Renaissance palaces, hiking the Cinque Terre’s coastal paths, or dining on fresh focaccia and farinata, craft beer provides another dimension to appreciate Ligurian culture.
The region’s beer establishments understand this integration instinctively. They’re places where locals gather for evening conversations, where visitors discover unexpected gems, where the Mediterranean lifestyle accommodates new traditions alongside ancient ones.
The Future on Tap
What emerges from Liguria’s craft beer renaissance is something that honors the region’s greatest strengths: entrepreneurial innovation, quality craftsmanship, and the ability to synthesize global influences into distinctly local expressions. This is craft brewing that feels inevitable given Ligurian history—another chapter in the region’s long story of turning limited resources into exceptional products.
For the sophisticated traveler, Liguria’s brewing scene offers the opportunity to witness Italian craft beer culture at its most integrated and authentic. This isn’t brewing as performance or tourist attraction, but as genuine cultural evolution—one that honors the past while embracing the future with characteristic Ligurian pragmatism and flair.
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal