Published by Leonardo Calcagno
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
In the region that gave the world an empire, contemporary brewers are crafting liquid histories that honor ancient traditions while embracing cosmopolitan innovation
Rome has witnessed the rise and fall of empires, the birth of Renaissance masterpieces, and the transformation of a medieval city into a modern capital. Now, in converted cellars beneath travertine palazzi and industrial spaces in former working-class neighborhoods, the Eternal City is experiencing another transformation: a craft beer renaissance that mirrors the complex, layered character of Lazio itself.
This is brewing with the weight of history—where every neighborhood carries echoes of emperors and popes, where ancient aqueducts still supply water to modern breweries, and where the challenge isn’t just creating great beer, but creating beer worthy of a city that has been setting cultural standards for three millennia.
Imperial Foundations
Lazio’s craft beer movement draws inspiration from Rome’s imperial past in ways both literal and metaphorical. Archaeological evidence suggests that Romans were accomplished brewers long before wine became the empire’s preferred libation, and several contemporary breweries have attempted to recreate ancient Roman beer styles using historical recipes and traditional ingredients.
At Birrificio Conteisa, housed in a former monastery near the Colosseum, master brewer Giulia Antonelli has spent years researching Roman brewing techniques. Her “SPQR” series recreates beers that might have been consumed by legionnaires, using ancient grain varieties like emmer and spelt, and flavoring agents mentioned in classical texts—coriander, fenugreek, and honey from the Castelli Romani hills.
The brewery’s flagship “Caesar’s Porter” incorporates water from the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, the same source that has supplied Rome for over 2,000 years. Each sip connects directly to the city’s imperial past, creating a temporal bridge that few beverages can claim.
Neighborhood Characters
Rome’s craft beer scene reflects the city’s distinctive neighborhood culture, with different districts developing their own brewing personalities. Trastevere, the bohemian quarter across the Tiber, has embraced experimental brewing with characteristic artistic flair. Here, Birra del Borgo’s Roman outpost collaborates with local street artists, creating limited-edition releases that pair visual art with liquid creativity.
In contrast, the Testaccio district—once Rome’s ancient port and now its most authentically working-class neighborhood—has developed a more traditional approach to craft beer. The area’s brewpubs serve as modern versions of ancient tavernas, places where Romans gather to debate politics over locally brewed lagers and traditional Roman fare.
The most intriguing development has occurred in Pigneto, a former industrial area that has become Rome’s creative heart. Once home to factories and workshops, the neighborhood now hosts a cluster of craft breweries that occupy converted industrial spaces. These breweries embody Rome’s ongoing transformation from ancient capital to modern metropolis, creating beers that speak to both the city’s industrial heritage and its contemporary artistic energy.
Vatican Connections
Perhaps nowhere is Rome’s complex relationship with tradition more evident than in the craft beer world’s surprising connections to Vatican City. Several Roman breweries have developed relationships with monastic communities, creating beers that honor the city’s profound spiritual heritage while embracing modern brewing techniques.
Birrificio San Lorenzo, named after the district that houses one of Rome’s four papal basilicas, produces a line of abbey-style ales in collaboration with Benedictine monasteries in the Castelli Romani. Their “Benedictus” tripel, brewed with herbs grown in monastic gardens and aged in barrels that once held Colli Albani wine, represents a uniquely Roman synthesis of sacred and secular brewing traditions.
The relationship extends beyond mere collaboration. Several Roman breweries observe traditional liturgical calendars in their production schedules, releasing special beers for major feast days and brewing traditional styles during Lent and Advent. This integration of brewing with religious observance creates a distinctly Roman approach to craft beer—one that acknowledges the city’s role as a spiritual center while embracing contemporary artisanal culture.
Castelli Romani Terroir
While Rome dominates international perceptions of Lazio, the region’s craft beer movement draws extensively from the volcanic hills of the Castelli Romani. These ancient volcanic slopes, crowned with medieval towns and papal summer residences, provide ideal conditions for growing brewing ingredients with distinctive character.
The volcanic soil of the Alban Hills produces grains and hops with unique mineral profiles that reflect the region’s geological history. At Birrificio dei Castelli in Frascati, brewers source barley grown in fields that overlook Lake Albano, a volcanic crater lake that supplies both water and inspiration for their brewing process.
Their “Vulcano” series of beers captures different aspects of the volcanic terroir—earthy saisons that reflect the mineral-rich soil, hoppy ales that showcase locally grown varieties, and dark stouts aged in caves carved from volcanic tuff. Each beer carries the unmistakable signature of the Roman countryside, creating flavors that couldn’t exist anywhere else in the world.
Culinary Integration
Rome’s legendary cuisine has profoundly influenced the region’s approach to craft beer, with many breweries developing beers specifically designed to complement traditional Roman dishes. This food-focused approach reflects the city’s status as a culinary capital, where meals are treated as sacred rituals and every dish carries centuries of cultural significance.
At Open Baladin Roma, located near the Pantheon, the beer menu reads like a guide to Roman cuisine. Their “Carbonara” wheat beer, brewed with black pepper and aged Pecorino Romano, provides the perfect accompaniment to the city’s most famous pasta dish. Similarly, their “Saltimbocca” herb ale incorporates sage and prosciutto di Parma, creating liquid analogies to classic Roman preparations.
This culinary integration extends throughout the city’s craft beer scene. Roman brewers regularly collaborate with traditional osterie and modern restaurants, developing bespoke beers that enhance specific dishes. The result is a level of gastronomic sophistication that rivals wine pairing, treating craft beer as an integral component of the Roman dining experience.
Modern Pilgrims
Contemporary Rome attracts millions of visitors annually—modern pilgrims drawn by art, history, spirituality, and culture. The city’s craft beer scene has adapted to serve this cosmopolitan audience while maintaining its distinctly Roman character.
In neighborhoods like Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona, craft beer bars operate as cultural ambassadors, introducing international visitors to Roman brewing while serving as gathering places for locals. These establishments walk a delicate line between authenticity and accessibility, creating spaces that feel genuinely Roman while remaining welcoming to outsiders.
The most successful venues achieve this balance by treating craft beer as another form of Roman storytelling. At Boccione Brewery near the Jewish Quarter, tastings include historical narratives that connect each beer to specific aspects of Roman history, creating educational experiences that enhance rather than diminish the drinking experience.
The Eternal Challenge
Rome’s craft brewers face unique challenges that reflect the city’s complex character. Brewing in a city where every construction project might uncover ancient ruins requires navigation of bureaucratic complexities that would challenge any entrepreneur. Equipment installation often requires archaeological oversight, and expansion plans must accommodate the discovery of everything from Roman mosaics to medieval foundations.
Yet these challenges have fostered innovation and creativity. Roman brewers have learned to work within historical constraints, often discovering that limitations spark rather than inhibit creativity. Ancient cellars provide ideal aging environments, while historical buildings create atmospheric tasting rooms that no modern construction could replicate.
Looking Forward
As Lazio’s craft beer scene continues to evolve, it faces the perpetual Roman challenge of honoring the past while embracing the future. The region’s brewers understand that they’re not just creating beverages—they’re adding new chapters to a story that began with the founding of the city itself.
The future of Roman craft beer seems likely to follow the city’s historical pattern: constant evolution that somehow maintains essential character. New breweries continue to emerge, each finding unique ways to interpret Roman identity through the lens of contemporary brewing.
In a city where ancient and modern coexist in daily life—where medieval churches rise from Roman foundations and Renaissance palazzi house contemporary businesses—craft beer represents another layer in Rome’s ongoing story. It’s a story written not in marble or bronze, but in the complex interplay of malt, hops, time, and the ineffable essence of a city that has been shaping civilization for three millennia.
The brewers of Lazio are proving that even in the Eternal City, innovation continues. Each perfectly crafted beer becomes part of Rome’s endless capacity for reinvention, a reminder that the city that gave the world roads, law, and architecture continues to find new ways to leave its mark on human culture—one exceptional pour at a time.
x Le Mondial de la Bière June 20–22 in Montréal
image: manvsglobe.com